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Specialist Locks Cabinets & Lockers |
Spares & Accessories |
CL610 Tubular Mortise Latch
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The CL610 is a heavy duty tubular mortise latch.
The outside lever handle will retract the latch after a correct code is entered.
The spring loaded latchbolt will lock automatically when the door is closed.
Quick Code change!
The CL600 range incorporating the new Quick Code system allows on door code change in seconds. Typically most mechanical digital locks require the lock to be removed from the door or partly disassembled to change the code.
- Internal doors and External doors
- Quick Code change - no need to remove lock from door
- Mechanical Codelock
- Lever handle lock for doors hung on the left or right
- Available in Brushed Steel and Polished Brass
- Use in offices / schools / warehouses / hospitals / care homes / nurseries / hotels / leisure facilities / the home
Available in 2 PVD Finishes
Brushed Steel, Polished Brass Images of lock finishes
CL610 brushed steel lock available with either lever or knob handle.
The CL610 locks are supplied with a random code commencing with the ‘C’ clear button. The code is non sequential, that is the code can be entered in any order e.g. 1234 can be 4321 or 1342 or whatever is the most convenient sequence. With the 13 buttons a total of 8,191 different codes are available, any of which may be entered in any order.
The CL610 has been designed so that the code can be changed on the door in seconds.
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Body material | Zinc alloy |
| Door material | Suitable for wooden doors |
| Door thickness | 35mm - 65mm (1 3/8" - 2 1/2") |
| Finishes | PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) hardwearing low maintenance finish BS (brushed steel) or PB (polished brass) |
| Latches - Option 1 | 60mm (2 3/8") backset latch requiring 25 x 82mm (1" x 3 1/4") hole |
| Latches - Option 2 | 70mm (2 3/4") backset latch requiring 25 x 92 mm (1"x 3 5/16") hole |
| Non handed | Lock will fit doors hung on the left or right |
| Spindle type | 2 part 8mm (5/16") spring loaded spindle |
Downloads:
 | Cl610 installation template |
| Number relating to picture | Item | CL610 |  |
| 1 | Front Plate and handle | * | |
| 2 | Back Plate and handle | * | |
| 3 | Neoprene seals x 2 | * | |
| 4 | RED and BLUE tipped spindles | * | |
| 5 | Fixing bolts x 3 (1 x spare) | * | |
| 6 | Front plate cylinder cover | * | |
| 7 | Allen Keys x 2 | * | |
| 8 | Mortise latch, strike & 4 screws | * | |
| 9 | Code change keys | * | |
| 10 | Latch support post | * | |
| 11 | Code change tool | * | |
Tools Required
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* When installing on a fire door, please see instructions below.*
Check operation of the coded front plate
The code may be entered in any sequence, i.e. 1370 may be entered as 0731 or any other sequence of those numbers. There are a total of 8,191 codes available, any of which may be entered in any order.
The CL610 model has a tubular, deadlocking, mortise latch and may be used as a new installation on a door, or where an existing latch is to be replaced.
When installing on a fire door, a fire kit is required. Please refer the instructions below.
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1.Lightly mark a height line on the edge and both faces of the door, and on the door jamb, to indicate the top of the lock when fitted. Crease the template (standard) along the dotted line, and tape it to the door with the top in line with the height line. Mark the 3 x 10mm (3/8") and the 1 x 30mm (1 3/16") holes. N.B. When fitting to a door with existing 54mm (2 1/8") through hole, only top two 10mm (3/8") holes need to be marked and drilled. 2. Keeping the drill level and square to the door, drill a 25mm (1") hole to accept the latch. 3. Keeping the drill level and square to the door, drill the 10mm and 30mm (3/8" - 1 3/16") holes from both sides of the door to increase accuracy and to avoid splintering out the door face. 4. Put the latch into the hole and, holding it square to the door edge, draw around the faceplate. Remove the latch and score the outline with a Stanley knife to avoid splitting and chiselling, chisel a rebate to allow the latch to fit flush to the surface. 5. Fix the latch with the wood screws, with the bevel towards the door frame. 6. Fitting the strike plate. N.B. The plunger beside the latchbolt deadlocks it, to protect against manipulation or ‘shimmering’. The strike plate must be accurately installed so that the plunger CANNOT enter the aperture when the door is closed, even if it is slammed shut. Position the strike plate on the door frame so that it lines up with the flat of the latchbolt and NOT the plunger. Mark the positions of the fixing screws, and draw around the aperture of the strike plate. Chisel out the aperture 15mm (5/8") deep to receive the latchbolt. Fix the strike plate to the surface of the frame using only the top fixing screw. Gently close the door and check that the latchbolt enters the aperture easily, and is held without too much ‘play’. When satisfied, draw around the outline of the strike plate, remove it and cut a rebate to enable the faceplate to lie flush with the surface. Re-fix the strike plate using both screws. 7. Take the BLUE and RED tipped spindle and fit to the code side according to the hand of your door (see diagram).
Fit remaining spindle to inside - non code side.
8. Fit latch support post into back of the code side front plate according to the hand of your door, A for a right hand door, or B for a left hand door (see diagram).
9. Cut three of the socket head bolts to the required length for your door. Approximate overall length should be door thickness plus 25mm (1") to allow about 10mm (3/8") of threaded bolt to enter the outside plate. 10. Apply the front and back plates, with the neoprene seals in position, against the door, over the protruding ends of the spindle. 11. Fix the two plates together using the socket head bolts, starting with the top fixing. Ensure that the two plates are truly vertical and then tighten the bolts using the ‘T’ shaped Allen key. Do not use excessive force. 12. Check that the lever handles are correctly fitted for the hand of door. To change the hand of a lever handle, loosed the grub screw with the small Allen key, reverse the lever handle and fully tighten the grub screw. 13. Before closing the door, enter the code and ensure that the latchbolt will retract when the lever handle is depressed. Now check the operation of the inside lever handle. If there is any binding of the handles or latch then loosen the bolts slightly and reposition the plates slightly until the correct position is found, and then re-tighten the bolts. |
N.B Ensure enough room for the latch support post. Please align the templare to suit the locks backset: 70mm (2 3/4") standard or 60mm (2 3/8").
N.B. Space required above latch body for cam to rotate
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* FIRE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS * Take time to be precise and finish the job quicker Installation holes must be drilled in exactly the correct positions and precisely at right angles to the door surface. |
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Step 6. Fit the spindles to the latch according to the hand of your door. Fit remaining spindle to inside - non code side. (see diagram below).
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Step 7. Fit the latch support post to hole adjacent to A for a left hand door, and adjacent to B for a right hand door.
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Diagram A Diagram B |
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Step 8. Screw the fixing posts (item 1 on page 13) into the front plate. Place the outer cover plate to the door with the inner cover plate (item 4) using |
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The CL610 has been designed so the code can be changed on the door in seconds.
The code chamber consists of 13 buttons from which the code is selected, and a ‘C’ button which is used to re-set the chamber after an incorrect entry, and which must always be used as the first digit of a code. Buttons may only be used once in a code. For example, 1212 is not possible.
A CL610 code, or combination, can be entered in any order or sequence; e.g. 1234 can be 4321 or 1342 or whatever sequence is most convenient to remember.
With 13 buttons, a total of 8,191 different codes are available, any of which can be entered in any sequence. Most people will set a code in the range of 4 to 7 digits, and the total number of codes in this range is 5,434. The lock is supplied with a random factory set code (see code change card supplied with lock). At any time this can be quickly changed to a new code of your choice.
Typically codes are 4 to 7 digits long. Shorter codes are possible (1-2 digits) but are not recommended.
Code Change Instructions
The CL610 model offers significant advantages over other similar mechanical digital locks by allowing the code to be changed in seconds on the door.
1. Choose code.
2. Insert key and turn anticlockwise to stop for right hand hung doors, or clockwise to stop for left hand hung doors. Fig 1.
3. Push the code change tool onto each button in turn, pushing in the buttons approx 2mm turn anticlockwise 180°. All buttons should now be in the non code position.
4. Test that all buttons are in non code position by depressing the lever handle which should retract the latch. If latch cannot be retracted press ‘C’ buttons and repeat step 3.
5. To select a button as a code button, push code tool over button. Press in button with tool approx 2mm and turn clockwise 180°. Fig 2.
6. Now turn the key clockwise for right hand hung doors, or anticlockwise for left hand hung doors retracting the latch which will relock the code buttons. Fig 3.
7. Return the key to centre and remove.
8. Before closing door test code.
Fig.1 (Image shows right hand hung door) Fig.2
Fig.3 (Image shows right hand hung door)
Removal of front load cylinders to repin or replace with cylinders by a different manufacturer
1. Remove handle and cylinder cover
2. Turn key 90° anticlockwise and remove the cylinder from boss.
3. To replace cylinder, reinsert and turn 90° clockwise. Replace the cylinder cover and handle.
* If intending to use a cylinder from a different manufacturer it is advisable to confirm beforehand that the new cylinder will fit the boss.
Note that the CL610 uses a 6 pin screw cap cylinder. If using a screw cap cylinder other than supplied, the tail piece from the Codelocks screw cap cylinder will need to be fitted as follows:
4. Hold down the control pin in the end of the cylinder and unscrew the cap.
CAUTION! DO NOT INSERT THE KEY IN THE CYLINDER ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SCREW CAP.
5. Refit the tailpiece, hold down the control pin and screw the cap on fully without tightening. Ensure the control pin projects to lock the cap. 
Test the key operation
If the key is difficult to insert, or tight when turning, then the cap maybe too tight. Loosen the cap one notch at a time and try the key again. If the key inserts and turns OK, but is difficult to remove, then the cap may be too loose. Tighten up the cap one notch at a time. Adjust the cap until the key inserts, turns and removes easily.
Maintenance
No maintenance of the working parts is necessary. Do not oil. To maintain the finish the lock should be cleaned regularly with a soft cloth. A silicone spray or similar should be used to provide a protective film against grit and grime.
| Description | Price | |
|---|---|---|
| CL600 Front Hub Assembly | From $70.00 | |
| CL600 Inside Hub Assembly | From $70.00 | |
| CL600 Lever Return Spring | From $5.00 | |
| CL600 Lever Set | From $76.00 | |
| CL600 Service Pack | From $30.00 | |
| Dead Latch 2 3/8" | From $20.00 | |
| Strike Plate ASA | From $20.00 |
Related Products
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| CL600 |
