CL5210 Tubular Dead Latch - Installation

Tools Required 

• Power Drill 
• Drill bits 10mm (3/8”), 25mm (1”) and
  54mm (21/8”)
• Philips screwdriver 
• Hammer / mallet 
• Chisel 25mm (1”)
• Stanley knife 
• Adhesive tape, pencil, bradawl, tape measure
• Pliers and hacksaw for cutting bolts  

Special Fixing Note

Remote Release Option
Cables are provided for the REM 1 and REM 2 terminals on the circuit board.  (Fig 1).

REM 1 is for connection to a Reception Desk push button or a Door Intercom system. Pressing the button will cause the Blue light to Flash on the lock and release the lock for the pre-set time.

REM 2 is for connection to a Fire Alarm System so as to release a door in an emergency. This allows rooms, wards, offices to be easily checked to ensure that no person is trapped or overlooked during an emergency or a practice fire drill. When activated REM 2 will maintain the unlocked condition for 30 minutes, and the Red LED will flash and BLEEP during this time. The lock will automatically lock again after 30 minutes. If necessary Program 11 can be used to re-lock before the end of the 30 minutes.

REM 1 and REM 2 do not require additional power. They are normally open contacts requiring a momentary or maintained signal to close.  

Dimensions CL5210 Latch Function

Outside handle turns freely without operating the latchbolt. When the code is entered the Blue light flashes, and the handle will retract the latchbolt. The latch automatically locks the door when closed. The key will open the door without the code.  

Installation of CL5210 Lock

Take time to be precise and finish the job quicker

Installation holes must be drilled in exactly the correct positions and precisely at right angles to the door surface. Lock components must be vertically and horizontally accurate in relation to each other and to the door.

WEDGE THE DOOR FIRMLY TO PREVENT MOVEMENT WHILST DRILLING AND CHISELLING

1. Lightly mark a height line on the edge and both faces of the door, to indicate the top of the lock when fitted. Crease the template along the dotted lines and tape it to the door with the top in line with the height line. Mark the holes to be drilled.

Mark the centre line of latch on to the door edge. Apply the template to the other side of the door precisely against the height line and the centre line of latch mark. Mark the holes to be drilled again. (See diagram A).

2. Keeping the drill level and straight, drill a 25mm (1”) hole on the centre of the door edge to accept the latch. Put the latch into the hole and holding it square to the door edge, draw around the faceplate. Starting with the top and bottom cuts, chisel a rebate to allow the latch faceplate to fit flush with the door edge. Remove the latch.

3. Keeping the drill level and straight, drill the holes to the door face. Drill from both sides of the door to increase accuracy and to avoid damage to the other side when a drill goes right through.

4. Insert the fire cup into the 54mm (21/8”) hole. N.B. open side of the fire cup to face code side with small bolt through hole at the bottom.

5. Reinsert the latch and fix the screws, with the bevel towards the door frame (See diagram B).

6. Fit the latch support post on the inside of the front plate, in outer hole Side A for a left hand hung door and in outer hole B for a right hand hung door. (See diagram C).  

7. Screw the cable tube into the front plate, passing the cable through the tube. For doors less than 45mm (13/4”) thick screw the tube all the way to the end of the thread. For doors more than 45mm (13/4”) leave an appropriate amount of thread showing.
Example: For a 60mm (2 3/8”) thick door leave 1 15mm (1/2”) of thread showing.

8. Fit the self-adhesive gaskets to the front and back plates. The gaskets provide friction against the door so that it is not necessary to over-tighten the fixing bolts to provide stability.

9. Remove the 4 socket head bolts from the back plate (2 are found under the battery cover). This will release the inside fixing plate.

10. Cut the fixing bolts to correct length. Measured from beneath the bolt head, the length should be the door thickness, plus approximately 15mm (1/2”) to the nearest cutting point of the bolt.
N.B. Always cut the bolts at one of the cutting points so as not to damage a thread. Use the cutting edges of pliers to crimp strongly several times around the selected cutting point. The surplus end should break off quite easily.

11. Put the spindle into the latch with the spring on the front plate side of the door.

12. Apply the front plate over the spindle, passing the cable tube through the door and the latch support post through the latch. Place the fixing plate over the cable tube and spindle. Screw the ring nut onto the cable tube until finger tight. Thread on the cable tube cap ensuring that the cables are within the slot and do not become trapped. Fit the alignment insert over the spindle. Screw the fixing bolts through to the front plate. (See diagram D).